Truffles are one of life's most rare and indulgent foods. And yet, these small, odd-shaped tubers are actually a fungus that grows on the roots of trees, such as the hazelnut or the oak. They are extremely hard to grow and the harvest season is a very short one, running from October to December. The best black truffles are found in the region of Périgord in France and the most prized white truffles are harvested in Alba, Italy. Needless to say, they are also one of the most expensive foods one can buy. But as Arrigo Cipriani (he of Harry's Bar in Venice, and various Cipriani's restaurants around the world) helpfully points out, "Truffles should never cost more than silver."

To make the most of the season, the pleasure — and my budget! — I rely on the next best thing to a real truffle: truffle-infused oil. It has the intoxicating and pungent aroma of a truffle without the high price tag — I mean, relative to the real thing!!! A good quality 8-oz. bottle will fetch at least $25. A pittance when one considers that 1 oz. of fresh truffle goes for about $100. And truffle-infused oil is extremely versatile. It is a perfect accompaniment to fried eggs (a breakfast fit for kings!), any kind of potato dish, pastas, risottos and even salads. Today I chose to pair it with tender spring baby zucchinis for a delicate and sumptuous salad. My personal preference is white truffle oil: I find it a bit more pungent than oil infused with black truffles. One important word of advice: never heat up this delicate infused oil, lest its beautiful aroma (along with the expensive price tag!) evaporate before your eyes. Only use it for drizzling.

Some women might dream of Tiffany jewels. My dreams, however, are filled with these scrawny tubers that truly are better than gold — or diamonds!